A couple of weekends ago, we went to Il Borro, located in Toscana. Ahhhhh, there's really no way to describe the gentle rolling hills of bella Toscana - you just have to experience it! We could feel the city tension fall away from our shoulders. We could smell the sweet, warm autumn air. Heaven.
We drove through the gorgeous Toscana countryside to any itty, bitty medieval village called Il Borro. We’ve been fortunate enough to have stayed in Il Borro many times as it’s the closest hotel to stay when visiting with my husband’s cousin, Sara, her husband, Mario, and their oh-so-darling-daughter, Franci.
Il Borro was founded in 1039. As was custom in the day, it was built on a wee hill, connected to the land via a bridge. It was, and still is, very secluded, off the beaten tourist path.
In the 1990’s, Il Borro was purchased by the Ferragamo family (yep, the famous “shoe” family). The Medici family had a brief ownership in the 1400’s and unfortunately, it received a lot of damage by the German forces as they fled Italy during WWII. Il Borro had been abandoned for decades by the time the Ferragamo’s purchased it. Luckily, the Ferragamo’s took their newly acquired job of ripristini (restorers) seriously and bit by bit, year by year, have made Il Borro a dream destination.
There are three different choices of accommodations. The first, Villa Il Borro, is an impressive palazzo! It sits across the bridge from the village of Il Borro on an opposite hillside. At 5 stories tall, sleeping 20, with 2 kitchens, a game room, indoor swimming pool and more living space than we’d ever know what to do with, we’ve never stayed there. However, we hear it’s very luxurious and who knows – maybe we’ll book it with a bunch of family and/or friends (hint, hint).
Secondly, we’ve read there are 4 farmhouses in different locations around the estate that we’ve not stayed in. Again, I’m confident they have been beautifully restored and offer every available amenity.
Lastly, there are 12 residences in the medieval village that have been turned into spacious, charming and luxurious apartments. Those, we’ve had the pleasure of staying in. Every detail was carefully though out, each apartment has everything a family needs for a comfortable stay. You want to stay in and cook for your family – no problem! You need wireless access – done. Soak in a large bathtub and sit in front of a fire – it’s ready and waiting.
The old businesses in town have been leased to skilled craftspeople to sell their wares –and- most importantly, to offer classes. You want to learn how to make a pair of shoes? Make an appointment with the cobbler and in a few hours, you’ll know. Jewelry, pottery, clothing, painting, glassblowing – there’s many hands-on lessons to choose from.
The surrounding grounds provide ample lessons in winemaking, olive oil pressing, horseback riding and even hot air ballooning! There’s a lovely outdoor swimming pool located in the back of town that’s open in the warmer months. If you’d like to take a tour of one of the Toscana towns, they will take you wherever you want to go - Firenze, Siena, Arrezo…
Another wonderful amenity: I 5 Sensi (the five senses). I 5 Sensi is an Osteria, run by five young locals, that offer amazing meals and cooking classes. They serve the seasonal, traditional Toscana dishes of Chianina beef steaks, fish, pork, lamb, fresh pastas, chicken liver pate (which I love, but can only find in the Jewish contrata in Rome), all with a choice of their wines grown on the estate (the 2001 Merlot/Sangiovese was rich and smooth as silk – we tried to buy additional bottles, but they were only selling the 2006), or other Italian wines. The desserts offered are a delightful end, to a most satisfying meal.
Staying at Il Borro is like staying with family. We couldn’t wait to arrive! Each time, we are housed in a different apartment. This time, we were located in the back of town, overlooking the freshly plowed valley below. Wild pheasant nest in the fields and the pool is close. Across the valley up on a plateau is the young Colombaia vineyard. It’s gated, we’re not supposed to trespass, but we always hop the fence. There are a few ruins along the vineyard, which makes for great pictures. Wheat fields, sunflowers and olive groves make up the balance of the agriculture of Il Borro.
We look forward to our next stay! Maybe family and/or friends will get the hint!
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